SBBK: Kaya Mooney

Started at age 14, inspired by some bonsai books/magazines. Practiced until he was able to work st a local nursery. Later attended Boon Intensives. At age 21, started a 6 yr apprentice at Koku-En (where Bjorn studied at). Continues to live and work in Japan as a bonsai professional.

San Jose Prostrada

• When designing junipers, easier to use or shape smaller more flexible branches than to work with bigger rigid branches. Bends will be too gradual and not dramatic and acute.

• Can grow branch thickness easily

• Jin, score the end around the bark to prevent bark removal from going too far

• Wires bottom up, angling down. So makes space for upper work.

• Can always regrow an apex, but harder to regrow lower branches. 

• Ideal to have a inate sense of doing it properly. Can tech some technique but having a good sense of things will make a good bonsai artist, but hard to put into words.

• Shari is just a start, but must progressively remove more bark—widen it.

• Try to respect the tree—if not twisty, best not to barber pole the Shari, 

• Aftercare: put it in full sun with shade cloth — don’t put it under a tree, afternoon sun, misting, wait 1-2 weeks then fertilize

• Was repotted a few weeks ago—so wait 1-3 years

• Repotting is stressful on trees—so repot less frequently—are the roots dense? Does it drain? Is it healthy?

• Use an awl (sharpened taper screwdriver). If dense. Do not stab the soil, it could injure large roots. Push down but wiggle the top to work its way down.  Most used tool. “Dibble”