Coast Redwood, next steps?

“What is the direction of the tree? Flow, apex—have a plan.”
Directional apex to the right.
Leave the chop alone, can Jin and carve twist or point—counterpoint of the trunk movement
Current apex branch can wire lots of movement to grow and Jin later
Will never be a Shohin size—target 12”
Develop left lower branch as primary (not in the elbow—avoid hiding the movement)
Pinch close and don’t pick other primary branches until a design comes to mind

Trident twisted, repotted, any next steps?

Focus on what you want to achieve
If it’s in a colander, don’t worry about refinement or ramification
If you are happy w trunk and taper then put it in a Japanese training pot. Slow it down. Next year repot and cut back all branches you don’t like
Let it grow out now. Leave sacrifice branches and let it add to taper—repot this fall or next spring, then cut back.

Example below was 1.5 years of development from the base trunk chop! Unrestrained, focused growth allows next apex to build girth.

Month of May is not the best season, but can still do it.
Best with a bud or branch to grow from, but can gamble with a chop.
For Adam’s Trident where a bud or branch was, he knob cut a concave chop to heal into.
Cut above a node, play it safe and leave length above the node for possible die back.
May wait until the base is larger or chop a larger specimen.

Adam Toth recommends these together on both conifers and most deciduous trees.
Also using liquid cal-mag + fox farms big bloom every 10-15 days during growing season, along with those granular ones.
Adam did not recommend those liquid ones. I heard to do on a pod with Andrew Robson.
IIRC he likes to rotate fertilizers, mostly organic. Chemical if plant is in growing phase instead of refining
Currently using:
16-4-8 Vigaro Tree Shrub & Evergreen
5-5-5 Vigaro Organic

2 months of lots of organic or Biogold
2-3 every inch or two and spread out.
Decandling—earlier than later, and cooler can be earlier. In San Mateo,
Earlier more time it has time to grow, depending on a show, time it so the needles are shorter for a show.
Journal when you decandle and weather, and next year react as needed.
Repotting can delay growth as well.

I used Clonex and some Hormex, yeah. TBH for this tree, it's so vigorous I don't need hormone but it doesn't hurt.
I also didn't use sphagnum for this one - I find that ground layers generally stay pretty wet (less wind, sun, compared to air layers so I don't need sphagnum).
Yeah, I probably won't bother looking for a month or so. I'll then move some soil away and see if it's healing over anywhere I don't want it to. If it is, I'll reset and give it another shot.
If I see roots, I won't touch until repotting season (Feb ish for this one) next year.
There are lots of options for securing trees without tying to roots. I probably won't need to resort to screwing a board.
The most likely one is the roots won't be super even so I can't cut as much underground trunk as I would like to immediately. I can then secure wire against the underground trunk. I'll then remove the rest of the underground trunk in the following repot.
The most common mistakes are not going deep enough, and not scraping the cambium layer (sticky layer) off.

Bury the ringed removed bark—don’t let it dry off, don’t expose it closer to the top.

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