Road Map
The following Q&A is based on what I have learned and attempt to practice, as a student of Bonsai.
My objective is to help remind myself and help other students in Bonsai care in order for their experience to be success in our gardens.
Type: Conifer, Deciduous, Deciduous-Evergreen, Conifer-Deciduous.
Stage: Development, Mature, Recovery, Propagation,
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter, Dormancy
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Is it green?
It showing new growth, for the season (e.g. Spring)?
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Check for X or Y
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Yes—let it grow, water & sunlight, fertilize per schedule.
Develop Exposed Root Base—called “Nebari” in Japanese, it enhances character and age to a tree. Selecting Bonsai material from the wild or nursery should seek buried roots to expose or enhance over time. If grown from seed or during each repotting, the top roots may be carefully placed radially and given time to grow.
Developing Trunk Width—Trunk taper, from base to top, is stylistically desired to accentuate maturity of the tree. Let the plan grow vigorously or allow an apical (top) or higher sacrificial branch to pull energy from base to top, aiding in trunk girth. This may take years for a final desired trunk, but must be intentional and encouraged if desired.
Developing Primary Branch—identify a primary branch roughly 1/3 your goal height and enhancing your “front”. Let this branch grow long and vigorously, do not prune. Possibly encourage growth by gently wiring the end upwards for maximum photosynthesis.
Developing trunk taper—avoid inverse taper, where the upper trunk increases in width than below. This may result from more than 2 branches projecting from the same level on the trunk. Pines and other species may tend to have whorls, with multiple branches radiating out from one point. Selectively prune back to a pair that enhance trunk movement or your intended design. Avoid “handlebar” branches, when possible.
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Description text goes here
Consolidate Healthy with Young & weak
Signs of poor health
Consider watering too little or too much
Development
Selecting a front
Is the base as desired—nebari, trunk width, movement?
Primary branch selected or developed
Remain in a grow pot, ground or to move to a bonsai pot? Associated with soil selection and what phase of development it is in.
Health:
green is good, investigate browning or unhealthy foilage for signs of pests or fungus. Understand your tree species and vulnerabilities.
Is it stressed? When was the last repotting or heavy pruning? If so, should it rest or temporarily be in partial shade?
Alive or dead—small scrape through bark—green implies alive.
Water & Sunlight:
Understand your tree species for watering sun exposure preference.
Is the soil moist or dry—and below the surface? Water based on need, not schedule.
Avoid “wet feet” (constantly wet roots)—managed by a pot’s drainage (hole) and free-draining soil.
Does water get to your roots? Short watering or surface watering may not get to the rootball if the soil or root density is slower to absorb water. Bottom-watering, by placing in a container of water to percolate up, or inspect if the rootball is too dense—gently perforate with a chopstick to ensure water absorption. Let drain.
Sun
Study your garden for the most sun-exposure during the day—estimate how long full sun lasts.
Depending on your climate, many prefer full sun or partial shade—be cautious of your hottest summer period. When unhealthy, after more vigorous pruning, or cuttings or seedlings—protect from sunburn or excessive exposure.
Disclaimer: Considering the source, I share this guidance as a student—and much of the content is gleaned from other’s extensive and direct experience. I am most grateful for their sharing with the public as well as direct mentoring. I personally do not have years or decades of direct experience, but wish to support other students with guidance from others.