Late Spring Lessons
Having reported after deciduous leafing out can shock or stress the plant as it feeds new roots, but my Bald Cypress was burned at the top and elsewhere. Lack of water, but aggregate soil in a colander may not keep roots moist enough. Moved into the shade and bagged the colander to retain inches of water.
Repotting went well for most, but late spring I realize some still needing repotting but too late.
Specifi ally junipers that are in original potting soil and over-watered. They should be let to dry before watering. One itoigawa has yellow tips—one symptom is over-watering.
Let plants grow without pruning.
I tend to learn and practice with (too much) passion. Last year it was fertilizing, where I had over done it with synthetic (Osmacoat) that burned or killed a few nice trees. 😞
This spring has been repotting and colanders. Will see if the plastic Daiyso colanders allows more aeration and growth or dependence on watering in fear of death.
Ugh
Itoigawa Junipers both exhibited yellow tips—a sign of over watering. 😞 Specifically, Itoigawa. Emergency up-potting one (1st) into a felt grow bag, tied down, and hope that it recovers.
Holding off watering to dry out, put in the shade.
I am often trimming elongated deciduous branches into shape, but rarely leaving a sacrifice branch.
Ugh Ugh
Emulating Adam’s refinement of Shohin & Mame, by full defoliation—I applied this to my Red Alder and a Maple. With the intention to increase ramification, it is a trade-off for slowing down. The other reason for defoliation is to slow down aggressive growth or branches, to focus energy to another branch (e.g. lower branch). We will see.
Green Bin
Disposed of dead plants, that I held onto too long.
In an effort to only have trees “with potential” In our gardens—I moved young trees with “less potential” or very young, or recovering from some affliction.
